As Altier Academy, we visited the “The Out of a Thread: Global Narratives in Textiles” exhibition at Istanbul Modern.
Curated by Susanne WeiB, Inka Gressel and Öykü Özsoy from Istanbul Modern, the exhibition was prepared in collaboration with the Institute of International Relations (ifa), Germany's long-established art institution.
The title of the exhibition, “The Event of a Thread”, belongs to Anni Albers, one of the most important artists of Bauhaus weaving workshops. Open from February 22 to July 7, 2019, the exhibition brings together the works of artists who use textile materials as a means of artistic expression. Among these artists, in addition to names like Belkıs Balpınar, Burhan Doğançay, Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu, Şakir Gökçebağ, Gözde İlkin, Gülsün Karamustafa, Servet Kocayiğit, İrfan Önürmen, Sabire Susuz; Ulla Von Brandenburg, Noa Eshkol, Andreas Exner, Uli Fischer, Heide Hinrichs, Olaf Holzapfel, Christa Jeitner, Elisa Von Joolen & Vincent Wulsma, Eva Meyer & Eran Schaerf, Karen Michelsen Castamon, Judith Raum, Franz Erhard Walther and also a fashion designer Hussein Chalayan and Zille Homma Hamid.
"The textiles, patterns, colors, motifs used in a country are shaped by the periods of that society and the life stories of the people in the society." Öykü Özsoy, the curator of the exhibition, summarizes the main theme of the exhibition. In the exhibition, where we witness how artists evaluate textile materials from different angles, from the "quipu" (knot) tradition of the peoples living in the Andes, the weaving techniques of the Wichi community in Argentina, from the writing collection of the artist and poet Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu, to the tapestries of Burhan Doğançay We are witnessing a wide range of content. In addition to these, it is possible to see pieces inspired by the fabrics of Bauhaus in the Bauhaus area, which has become a very important school in Germany.
Noa Eshkol, one of the exhibition artists, stitched and stitched the found fabrics together without interfering with their form. The pieces of fabric used by Noa Eshkol were generally made up of leftovers from clothes.
"Night Time in the Arab Village", Noa Eskhol - 1982
Cotton, polyester, velvet, satin, crepe fabric, wool gabardine, taffeta, panne velvet
“Melek”, Gülsün Karamustafa – 1986
“Fabric is a very warm material that carries its own light. It is always possible to create a flexible and multicolored palette. With the addition of the sewing knowledge that I have been familiar with since childhood, a situation that triggered creativity emerged. " - Gülsün Karamustafa
"An Ordinary Love", Gülsün Karamustafa - 1985
"Capsize", İrfan Önürmen - 2015
Tulle, acrylic and textile collage on canvas
“ Textile materials such as garment pieces, lace, fabric and tulle that I pasted on the canvas accumulated in my workshop. I was experimenting with small-size painting with paint on tulle and transparent fabric pieces. These were courageous work for that period and environment and they waited for maturity in my workshop for a long time. Then I was going to make my big tulle series. " - İrfan Önürmen
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"Singularities", Belkıs Balpınar - 2015
“Woolen threads are used for traditional carpet and rug weaving technique. That's how I started, but over time I started using different materials such as cotton and hemp. I decide what kind of material I will use to create the image I want. " - Belkis Balpinar
The work of Vincent Vulsma and Elisa van Joolen's “Technik” consists of four pieces of weaving: a hand-woven blanket of Navajo natives from the 1890s, a reproduced example of this blanket to be used for trade in the 1910s, a mass-produced Ikea from the 2010s. rug and a knitted sweater from the 2012-2013 Autumn-Winter Collection by German fashion designer Bernard Wilhelm.
Although these woven products, each using different materials and techniques, have emerged in different contexts in different periods, they can establish a relationship through a common design: the Navaho pattern.
The artist that we will mention last is Hussein Chalayan, who is also a fashion designer. Hussein Chalayan lifts the boundaries between fashion design and contemporary art with his projects, and the inspiration for his video named “After Words” is the division of Cyprus into two as the Turkish and Greek part in 1974. In Chalayan's video, designs that have turned into portable furniture-clothes focus on the idea that people want to take what they have with them during the tragedies they had to leave their homeland. You can watch Chalayan's video in the exhibition area (Hussein Chalayan graduated from the Central St. In addition to continuing his career as a fashion designer, the artist prepares installations, directs short films and designs costumes for stage performances).
Prepared by: Sümeyra Bıyıklı
After graduating from Istanbul University Faculty of Literature Art History undergraduate program in 2017, she completed her Pedagogical Formation education at Istanbul University. Currently working as a Library Manager at Altier Fashion and Beauty Academy, Bıyıklı enables them to develop their intellectual infrastructure by conducting workshops on history and art with our students. At the same time, he continues his academic studies with Istanbul University History undergraduate program.
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